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The size of the summer spirea cuttings which take

The spirea shrubs are easy to live and they do not require much care. The spirea spring, for example, offer a magnificent white flowers long lasting and require no real size to fully bloom as they bloom on old wood of at least one year. Pruned severely, but also deprive them of their port harmonious, very often, especially for the spirea spirea arguta and Van Houtte, the branches bend gracefully under the weight of flowers.

When shrubs get older, you can delete Occasionally a branch old to promote growth of new flowering shoots. Do not, under any circumstances to carry out a severe beating. The plant will blossom over the next year. My spirea spring are still young and I'm opting out of this size.

situation is quite different for the summer-flowering spirea, including Japanese spirea, Spirea Hybrid bumalda, or the spirea douglasii billardii. For them, the size of the end of winter is essential if we want to get a nice bloom. My garden is still at the beginning of the month March that I cut Anthony Waterer spirea bumalda. It is sometimes recommended to practice a very strict size by folding all stems to 15 cm of soil. I proceeded in this way only once, to rejuvenate my spirea I had neglected for years and who flourished much.

Spirea bumalda before pruning, 03/2011

Spirea bumalda after pruning, 03/2011

This technique can be implemented if we want low shrubs and compact. For my part I prefer the shrubs at the port level. So I chose to cast off the road branches by one third, eliminating those that are very old, dead, or sickly intertwined, it helps to aerate the center of the crown, which also receives more light. I always severs the branches above a bud. Every year, I get large flat dark red inflorescences that attract bees and bumblebees. I take care to remove all spent flowers regularly and spirea blooms again twice until the end of September but more modest than in June-July. The shrub is about 1.50 meters and stands with the rose Salet.

Spirea bumalda, 06/2010

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Each year from late summer to midwinter, I multiply a number of species that I especially like to install new topics in different parts of the garden. The cuttings techniques that I 'uses are simple, the success rate is important and they require no special equipment.

At the end of February, thanks to mild weather, which accelerates the awakening of vegetation, signs of recovery are visible.

has dry wood cuttings of shrubs spring made in January are doing well on the spirea is observed in young leaves that grow. We must wait several weeks before the root system is well developed. The implementation will not only fall.

cuttings spirea and mock orange spring, 02/2011

Every year, for the pleasure of seeing rependre I make cuttings of large Sedums, again it is a success. He'll just find them a place, which becomes difficult because I lack of space.

Sedums, 02/2011

I also tried cuttings of cysts of different species. I want to plant a clump very dry lavender which are installed. They are practiced in late summer. Should be collected side shoots 15 cm long and retain only the pair of terminal leaves. The cuttings should be placed in a mixture or even very light sandy soils. Rooting may take several months. Late August is the best time for propagation of these shrubs scrubland.

Cistes, 02/2011

J'ai enfin multiplié les lavatères arbustives que je souhaitais avoir en grand nombre en raison de leur floraison généreuse tout l'été. Elles ne vivent pas très longtemps, subitement, au bout de quelques années de culture, elles peuvent dépérir sans raison. Heureusement, le bouturage de tiges en août et en septembre est très facile. Les rameaux prélevés doivent comporter deux étages de bourgeons et faire 15 à 20 cm de long. Là encore, il ne faut garder que les feuilles du sommet et les couper de moitié pour éviter que la bouture ne se dessèche. les boutures sont ensuite plantées in a light soil and permeable. The earth of my garden is very suitable. Special potting soil cuttings is of course ideal. The heavy soils can be lightened with sand.

Lavatera shrub 02/2011

Finally, I slip my favorite roses, Madame Alfred Carriere and Star of Holland. I collected twigs in September of the year still green but already lignified (that is to say semi-August) of 15 cm in length on which I left only the leaves terminal and I placed in pots containing a mixture of light soil. I have planted against the walls which promotes rooting. In recent days, the leaves begin to emerge but the roots do not form completely that in the months to come. I install them next fall in their final location. I'm also amused at the rose cuttings The Fairy, a breeze, all branches, even the finest resume with extreme ease.

Roses Star of Holland and Madame Alfred Carriere 02/2011

Rose The Fairy, 02/2011

I said that I do not use rooting hormone, and I not carrying cuttings stew sometimes recommended for Lavatera or roses, this method requires too much attention to my taste.

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An air spring

Right now the weather is gray, but very mild, resulting quasi-general revival of vegetation. On roses and many shrubs flower buds are clearly visible. On Buddleia ungainly-looking new leaves have emerged. Over time, the pruning that affect roses and summer-flowering shrubs will begin. The Oriental hellebores are almost all fulfilled. The accompanying heather and flowering will last another month at least.

The Japanese quince is covered in spots but flowering, always flamboyant, will not occur until late March.

The forsythia, albeit a very common, but I like the massive flowering and bright, little by little hatch, it signals the end of winter. Some older and bulky, must be severely pruned after flowering because I've neglected a bit, the port is not very harmonious.

Dogwood male is not yet flowered, it will soon take over from Bodnant viburnum begins to pass and winter honeysuckle.

Tulips and daffodils are all gone now. Here and there a few daffodils are already blooming. growth of biennials such as forget-moon, wallflowers and erisymums resumed.

The small bulbs like grape hyacinths and foliage ipheions were well supplied, however, they must still wait before having flowers.

daphne odora My which has preserved almost all its leaves through the mild winter begins to bloom, its fragrance is sweet already present, it is as strong as that of the honeysuckle. At its foot first bloom seedling spontaneous oriental hellebores.

is still allowing the sweetness of Algiers iris blooming.

Just take a walk in the garden to be convinced that spring is not so far. In fact, the winter weather will end in a few days, it definitely does not mean that late cold snaps are excluded. Everything seems normal cycle succeeds another. What is still worrying in the short term, the rainfall deficit is important in my area for the months of January and February, it reached about 50%. This is particularly worrisome with climate change as I watch the last ten years the spring and summer are becoming drier. This leads me to generalize the mulch in the beds of perennials and roses at the foot. The gardener must learn to adapt to such changes.

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The winter honeysuckle fragrance exudes powerful

early as January if the weather is mild and this was the case this year, the fragrant honeysuckle starts to bloom in a scattered manner but to 20 February as the flowering is in full swing. She is far ahead of the forsythia and it has the advantage of being extremely fragrant. The flowers are smaller than those of climbing honeysuckle fragrance but in my opinion is much more powerful and also more subtle. It can be felt at several tens of meters per round, regardless of the time. The flowers stand very well in rain and moderate frosts. The shrub is perfectly hardy. I can not get enough of her sweet scent that combines notes of jasmine, hyacinth and lily of the valley, a real antidote to the dreariness of winter and the rpm drops. Its botanical name Lonicera fragrantissima , that is to say, very fragrant, is really justified.

past few days, the bees are in turn attracted by the sweet smell of flowers. Weather permitting, the shrub has a large number of insect pollinators, bees and bumblebees. I associated with Bodnant viburnum flower which is also at this time and a male dogwood that is currently in bud and bloom in March. This honeysuckle, which is not found so often in the gardens, also has its place in the hedges in the company of evergreen shrubs such as photinia or spring flowering shrubs.

Lonicera fragrantissima, 02/2011

It is really recommended because of its ease of culture, and its robustness its abundant winter flowering scented. It adapts easily to all soils that are not excessively heavy. Whoever is planted in my garden is aged about ten years and has now reached about 2.50 meters high and as wide. It must take account of its size at planting if it is to take his ease without stifling its neighbors because it is very vigorous and grows a lot in the spring, less in summer when the heat settles. That said, its resistance to drought is remarkable.

This honeysuckle shrub (sometimes described as semi-evergreen but with me it loses all its leaves, a treasure for compost) does not need size because its port is naturally harmonious, however with age it forms small amount of dry twigs which should be removed to ventilate the center of the shrub and encourage the emergence of new shoots. This operation, easy to carry, is played in late March after flowering. The rest of the year, it gets forgotten but is still a curtain of greenery always appreciated.

There really is more of a reason to adopt this honeysuckle still relatively unknown.



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